Posts tagged Travel

Sometimes

Sometimes... You plan a camping trip in June, and its 93 degrees of sweaty summer heat. Sometimes you even get a thunderstorm on top of that. You leave Northern Virginia with a goal of catching sunset from Crescent Rock Overlook in Shenandoah National Park, but traffic delays arrival until well after the moon has risen. You wait for the night sky to reveal a wondrous starry night sky, only to have clouds roll in, obscuring the Milky Way. You plan to hike to up to the top of a mountain with some of your closest friends, but life gets in the way, and you're relegated to, "Wish I could, but some other time guys!" You aim to build, "the biggest fire the North has ever seen," but run out of dry firewood by 9 o'clock, and end up cold in the dark.

But this time... The campfire burned through the night. We shared laughs over a picnic from a summit with an incredible view. The clouds part, and the Milky Way shows itself to the naked eye. Traffic eased enough to allow us to see all of sunset's beautiful colors in the valley below. Days of humidity melt away, and we were left with a perfect weekend in June.

VignettesMark TegethoffJune 24, 2019Travel, Land & Sea

Edinburgh

Scotland’s capital city, and the country’s second most populous, Edinburgh is an enchanting city with the uncanny ability to transport visitors back in time via its narrow closes, medieval buildings, and lush gardens. Having been inhabited by various cultures, clans, and monarchs since as far back as the Mesolithic, the city (and especially its Old Town neighborhood) has a rich and varied history. It has been home to kings and queens, and holds Scotland’s Crown Jewels to this day. It’s been described not just as the Athens of the North, but also as “Auld Reekie,” a city of loud, crowded pubs and decadent restaurants. To us, it was home for four days in late May.

We arrived via train, by way of London late on a Sunday afternoon. Our Accommodation was a lovely little mewes apartment in Stockbridge (it seems it must’ve been a carriage house and garage at one point). After the long journey, we found it prudent to stay local for our first evening, and explore the neighborhood. A short walk downhill took us to the nearest thoroughfare, and after a pint at one of the local pubs (Stockbridge Tap, whose pints made up for what it might have been lacking in atmosphere), we found ourselves at The Scran & Scallie. Having been recommended by multiple friends who’d been to the area before, S&S was our introduction to the food of Scottish Chef, Tom Kitchin. It was a wonderful first impression. The Sunday Roast was phenomenal, and we left with full bellies and tired bodies, but ready to see the city.

Monday morning was a quintessential Scottish morning, chilly and gray, and the forecast had us worrying that rain might be in our future. Luckily the weather held, and after a bacon & egg “butty” and coffee at a little coffee & wine bar called Vesta, we set out to see Edinburgh’s Old Town.

The view down Princes Street form Calton Hill

Our first stop was in what are probably Edinburgh’s most famous gardens: Princes Street Gardens. Covering 29 acres, the parks were created following the draining of what was once loch used as part of the city’s defenses. Today, the parks are home to quite a bit of green space, an amphitheater, as well as numerous statues and memorials. As we moseyed through the parks, we noticed a bit of crowd gathering, including men and women in uniform. Unbeknownst to us, one of the memorials in the Princes Street Gardens is a Scottish-American War Memorial, at which, soldiers from both Scotland and the United States were presenting their respective colors for an annual US Memorial Day ceremony. It was quite a nice surprise.

Next on the itinerary, was Calton Hill. Right in the city centre, it’s impossible to miss, as it’s topped by Edinburgh’s own Acropolis. Not nearly as ancient as its namesake in Athens, Scotland’s version was also never finished, as funds ran dry during the 1822 construction of what was once called the “National Monument,” leaving only a facade complete. Calton Hill is also home to an old observatory and to Nelson’s Monument, but its true attraction is wonderful views of the city, and of the nearby Arthur’s Seat. Despite the cloudy day, the views were great, and it’s a spot that I’d recommend to anyone visiting Edinburgh. The Hill would be a great spot for a picnic lunch. It is easily accessible, not too crowded (though there were quite a few people there), and not a very difficult climb.

The colorful storefronts of Victoria Street were J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books.

Our afternoon took us to the heart of Old Town in Edinburgh for a tour of the city’s centerpiece: Edinburgh Castle. The castle sits atop Castle Rock, overlooking the Royal Mile. It has been home to monarchs, military, and now tourists (fun fact: it is actually still an active military installation!). We joined one of the castles guided tours, and were glad we did. Our guide provided just the right amount of context and history as she showed us around the site. We explored the Scottish National War Memorial, toured the Great Hall, gazed up on the Honours of Scotland (amongst the oldest Crown Jewels in all of Europe), and walked through what used to be the castle’s prisons (seeing what is one of the earliest renditions of an American flag, dating back to the American Revolution).

As the resident history buff of the group, I found the castle fascinating, particularly the story of the Black Dinner, which is said to have inspired Game of Thrones’s infamous Red Wedding. As a historical landmark, Edinburgh Castle is certainly one of the city’s must-see landmarks, and I think the opportunity to spend some time walking around, learning about the Scottish capital’s history was well worth the price of admission.

Our first full day in Scotland concluded where the previous evening did: in Stockbridge. Lauren and Caroline’s cousin Joanna was scheduled to arrive via train after dinner, so we made sure to grab a bite at local pub (The Bailie’s fish and chips really hit the spot!) before embarking on a pub crawl of sorts, with a stop for a couple of pints at Hectors on our way back to The Stockbridge Tap for a second visit in as many nights, where we welcomed Jo to the traveling party, and wound down our evening.

Tuesday began as Monday did, with a walk through the heart of Edinburgh over to Old Town. This time, our destination was a tour of a different sort at Mary King’s Close. A historic close located along the Royal Mile, Mary King’s Close has become something of a tourist destination (maybe even a tourist trap). An old street of partially demolished and buried tenement buildings (the city’s Royal Exchange was built on top of what remained of the buildings), the close has a history of hauntings and is the subject of many urban myths. Today, it is a historical tour that takes visitors on a journey through the old buildings’ remaining rooms and through time; telling tales of sewage in the streets, residents falling to their deaths from rickety ladders, and the horror of the plague. While elements of the tour were fascinating, I’m not sure its a tour that would top my list of recommendations for future visits.

After spending a morning in the dark and dusty remains of a buried street, we emerged into the fresh air; making our way to the nearby Leith for the highlight meal of the trip at The Kitchin. Showcasing the best of Tom Kitchin’s ideas, the restaurant is one of eight in Scotland showcased in the Michelin guide (with 1 star), and one that showcases the country’s ingredients. Highlights of our meal included an ox tail appetizer, guinea fowl main, and the wonderful cheese cart. The Kitchin is not to be missed when in Edinburgh.

The Scott ladies pause to pose on a sunny Edinburgh afternoon.

As we left the restaurant, we found ourselves in the midst of a bright sunny day, and took the opportunity to take the scenic route back to our accommodations with a stroll along the banks of the Water of Leith, a meandering little river that connects Edinburgh to Leith. Along the way, we passed numerous cyclists, residents out for an afternoon walk, and of course a number of westies being walked by their owners.

Our Tuesday adventure wound to a close with happy hour pints on the patio at The Raeburn, a trip to the local Waitrose, and a light meal back at our AirBnB, where Caroline spent the better part of our evening introducing Lauren and Jo to the wonders of First We Feast’s The Hot Ones.

Looking out towards Arthur’s Seat from Calton Hill.

Wednesday featured a persistent light rain. Luckily, it was not enough to deter us from enjoying our final day. We continued our trend of moving around by foot, as we set off for Arthur’s Seat. Only about a mile east of the castle, the extinct volcano is a striking peak that overlooks the city of Edinburgh. It has been mentioned in a number of literary works over the years, and is thought to be named for the legendary King Arthur, as it may have been the location of the mythical “Camelot.” Our “hike” that day was more of a walk, as we chose to spend our time and energy exploring the base of the hills, rather than brave the wind and rain at the peak. Climbing to the summit will surely be on our list the next time we visit.

How many hands must’ve rubbed the toe of this David Hume statue for luck?

Lunch consisted of burgers, haggis, and a flight of various whiskies at Whiski Rooms. I quite enjoyed the haggis spring roll appetizer, but was less than impressed with the burger. After lunch, we spent the early part of the afternoon browsing various gift shops and boutiques. Caroline had a particularly fruitful visit to Scribbler, as she walked away with more than a half-dozen of their unique brand of greeting cards, while Lauren managed to find a Harris Tweed coat for Lucy that we just could not pass up. With no end in sight to the rain, we spent the remainder of the afternoon and early evening first at Bramble sipping cocktails against an early 90s hip-hop soundtrack, and then at Kay’s Bar milking a happy hour pint (and whisky).

After watching a less than satisfying Europa League final in a return visit to The Bailie, we squeezed in one last meal: a late evening dinner at Nok’s Kitchen. After a few days of delicious local cuisine and pub food, a bit of Thai spice hit the spot. We enjoyed all of the dishes we ordered, but the pad ka prow was an especially tasty choice. Following dinner, we made our way back up the hill from Stockbridge, and ended our time in Scotland with a well-deserved night of sleep.

Edinburgh is a gem of a city. It combines old with new in quite a unique way. Its history is enchanting, and it has a unique Scottish beauty to it. I’m happy to have spent some time in it, and it’s a city that I’ll look forward to visiting again. When I think back to our mornings and evenings in Stockbridge, and contrast them with our afternoons enjoyed downtown, it feels like Robert Louis Stevenson really nailed when he wrote:

“Half a capital and half a country town, the whole city leads a double existence; it has long trances of the one and flashes of the other; like the king of the Black Isles, it is half alive and half a monumental marble.”

StoriesMark TegethoffJune 19, 2019Travel

Steamboat Springs

It's easy to lose photographic motivation in the winter.

Cold, windy days. Short days. Long nights. It's a time of year that can be brutal for the outdoor photographer. The motivation to get out and explore can often go missing for weeks or months at a time.

Winter can also be beautiful though. Snow. Ice. Mountains. The warm colors of a dying winter sunset. These are some of nature's most beautiful creations. What better place to find all of these and more than the Rocky Mountains?

Earlier this winter, I had the opportunity to visit Steamboat, Colorado for the first time. The trip is one of Lauren's annual traditions, and after spending a week there, I can completely understand why. I made to pack my trusty O-MD E-M1 Mk II, a couple lenses, and promised myself, this would be a perfect opportunity to find some inspiration.

Steamboat Springs is one America's great ski towns. It has proudly produced more Olympians than any other town in North America (98 and counting), and the resort has gone as far as to trademark the Champagne Powder snow (6 percent water compared to the more typical 15 percent) that often falls on its mountain. The resort boasts 18 ski lifts, 169 trails, and spreads over 2,965 acres.

Outside of the mountain, the town also boasts quite a bit to do. There is ample opportunity for cross-country skiing in the winter, more than a few delicious restaurants and bars, and an abundance of hot springs. In fact, the town's name of Steamboat Springs is a callback to the "steamboat-like sound" that early trappers heard coming from the hot springs back in the beginning of the 19th century.

Our week in Steamboat featured a little bit of everything, including the launch of an attempted world record firework (alas, it was unsuccessful). A camera was never far from my grasp.

We spent parts of three days on the slopes (Lauren on her snowboard, myself on a pair of rented skis) enjoying the views, the powder, and the cold mountain air. I enjoyed my leisurely descents down the mountain's less challenging routes, but I really looked forward to our daily lunch at Tbar, a local spot just off the trails. Their Pork Belly BLT was an especially good choice.

We also spent some time on flat(ter) ground, as one morning, we strapped on Nordic boots, and tried our hand at Cross-country skiing (it was my first time). We mostly had a blast, despite the final quarter of our route featuring heavy legs and a few falls (I am certainly thankful for the industry-leading weatherproofing on Olympus's O-MD series).

Even when we weren't skiing, we certainly weren't bored. Our visit coincided with Steamboat's annual Winter Carnival, which culminated in an evening combination ski & fireworks show featuring the "lighted man" (a prom king of sorts, who skis down the mountain covered in LED lights, with fireworks shooting out of a backpack), ski jumpers, local ski club kids, and the aforementioned record attempt (An attempt was made to launch and detonate the world's largest firework. It unfortunately was a dud; fortunately, no one was injured). We also spent more than one day traipsing around the town of Steamboat Springs, checking out the shops, having a vacation beverage or two, and generally just enjoying our time in the mountains. Outside of town, we made sure to spend an afternoon of R&R at Strawberry Park, a local hot spring that offered a hidden oasis for us to rest our tired muscles.

I don't think we ate a subpar meal the entire week. Some of the highlights included the french onion soup (and everything else) at Harwigs, the sauces and perfectly cooked meat at Mahogany Ridge Brewery & Grill, and tinga (and margaritas) at Salt & Lime. It would be a crime not to mention the decadent breakfasts at the Paramount and Creekside Cafe, where it was made clear that sausage gravy is the perfect sauce for chicken and waffles. I'd also highly recommend any of the brews at Storm Peak Brewing Company.

By the time we boarded our flight back to DC, I had a fully belly, sore legs, and a camera full of images that I'm proud of. Almost since the first time we met, Lauren described Steamboat as one of her "happy places," and I can now see why. It's a wonderful town in a picturesque location, and I look forward to my next visit.

StoriesMark TegethoffMarch 19, 2019Travel

Portugal

When planning our recent honeymoon, Lauren and I considered quite a few destinations. As the big day approached, we narrowed our list, and a mid-October holiday in Southern Europe felt like the perfect celebration of our marriage.

Sometimes the only tool for the job is a real guidebook & map.

Southern Europe provides many great experiences to the modern traveller. Visitors in need of a tan can venture to the Mediterranean coastline, which is home to world-class beaches in places like Crete (Greece), Sardinia (Italy), and Brac (Croatia). Those looking to satisfy their innermost foodie can find can't miss meals in the iconic culinary destinations of Spain (San Sebastián and Barcelona) and Italy (Tuscany, Bologna, and Sorrento). History buffs can spend days and days exploring what remains from some of our most important ancient ancestors in Rome (Italy) or Athens (Greece).

Ultimately though, we agreed to travel somewhere that neither of us had previously been: Portugal.

Raising a glass to our first evening in Portugal.

A country rich in history, but small in stature (geographically, it's only about the size of the state of Virginia), it has, in the last half-decade, carved out its niche as a go-to destination. We constructed an itinerary for our trip that would allow us have a little bit of all of various experiences Portugal has to offer.

Algarve

The Southern part of Portugal is flanked to the South and West the Atlantic Ocean. The region is known for its seaside cliffs, beaches, bays, and islands.

During the summer months it fills with tourists looking to enjoy a sunny holiday. October, however, is a bit quieter, and ended up being just the kind of place to relax for a few days to begin our trip.

At the recommendation of a friend, we chose to stay at Vilalara Thalassa in Porches. The resort was ideally situated atop a cliff, and had access to a gorgeous golden sand beach. We enjoyed our time relaxing by the water, strolling through the resort's gardens, and enjoying vinho verde poolside. And our single excursion took us to nearby Vila Joya for one of the stand-out dining experiences of our lives. For anyone looking for a resort experience on the Portugese coast, Vilalara Thalassa is hard to beat.

The Alentejo

The largest region in Portugal, The Alentejo is made of rolling hills, wide open plains, and green vineyards. Some of Portugal's biggest vineyards are located here, and the landscape is dotted with marble towns and whitewashed villages. Come to enjoy the rich culinary traditions of Portugal (lots of pork!), while experiencing a varied history that dates as far back as the Paleolithic.

Évora is one of Portugal's most well-preserved towns, as its walls date back to the 14th century. Inside those walls, we found ourselves wandering the narrow medieval streets, taking in the Roman columns of the Temple of Diana, climbing the cathedral's towers for a rooftop wander, visiting the lively town square, and finishing things off with a fantastic meal at a small restaurant that made us feel like we were family.

The cathedral of Évora, where we wandered around on the roof, and found a 360 degree view of the town and surrounding area.

While in The Alentejo, we also made time for a road trip, where found ourselves transported back in time to one of Portugal's oldest villages, Monsaraz. It would not have been a complete trip to The Alentejo though without a trip to a vineyard though, so we made sure to spend a couple hours in the tasting room at Esporao, where we had the opportunity to try some wine aged in clay barrels.

When it was time to check out of our hotel (the charming Albergaria do Calvario — we'd both highly recommend it!), we were sad to leave behind the charming history of The Alentejo.

A young couple takes in the view from atop the castle in Monsaraz.

Porto

It's hard to think of Portugal without also thinking about Port wine. Located in the Northern part of the country, Oporto is the home to Portugal's famous Port wine sellers. Their storefronts and cellars line the bank of the river Douro in Gaia, and the city of Porto steeply rises on the opposite bank.

It's a city with a unique charm, as well as a bit of an edge. It's also a city that caught in the midst of transition. The riverfront's historic buildings and port cellars are juxtaposed with the business of tourism happening on the river itself. These days, you're just as likely to see high-powered jet skis whiz by as you are to see a tree growing out of the side of a crumbling building.

After the relaxation of Porches and quiet streets of Évora, the bustle of the Porto was all the more apparent.

Lauren and I posing in the gardens of Serralves.

We spent about half of our time in Porto along the riverfront, where we sipped port wine and snacked on calamari and fish (but unfortunately did not arrive in time to tour any of the cellars). A hop-on/hop-off tour bus helped us explore the rest of the city, where we first strolled through the gardens of Serralves, and then found our way to the ocean for some incredibly fresh (and delicious) fish. We even found our way to what can only be described as a [combination vintage shop-art gallery-tapas bar], where we quenched our thirst and cooled our brows with afternoon caipirinhas.

Gaia is home to Porto’s world-famous port cellars.

Porto has been described as a one of Europe's "second cities". I'm not one to bestow or validate that kind of label, but it is a city that in 2018, very much feels like it's on the rise, with its own culture and uniqueness, and one that I might imagine will be very different if and when we return.

Lisbon

It wouldn't be a trip to Portugal without a visit to Lisbon. It's a city with a long, proud history that was almost completely destroyed nearly 300 years ago by a massive earthquake. That earthquake in many ways has come to define the city, and to this day there seems to be a struggle between the old and the new.

Confusing, narrow (but charming) streets in areas like Alfama contrast with the wider avenues and crush of tourists of the Baixa downtown. The city's skyline is as dotted by construction cranes as it is by the famous white cathedral domes. The Castle of St. Jorge is a perfect encapsulation of this, as some of its original fortifications date back to the 6th century, yet much of what's standing today was restored in the early 20th century.

Our Lisbon experience began in earnest with a long, winding walk from our AirBnb through the Bairro Alto & Chiado to a dinner reservation. It was a bit of prescient start to our visit, as the ups and downs of the journey mirrored the rest of our trip.

A Lisbon sunset, as seen from Miradoura da Graça.

We thoroughly enjoyed the history lesson we received from our walking tour guide. We were not disappointed by the Pastéis de nata from the famous Pastéis de Belém. We got lost (in all the best ways) exploring the trendy LX Factory. We enjoyed varied restaurant experiences, which ranged from the michelin-rated Belcanto to a small traditional eatery in Alfama. We fell in love with the city's scenic views, both at sunset and in the afternoon.

Seen in the distance here, the Ponte 25 de Abril, connects Lisbon to Almada.

In Closing

If the trip taught me anything, it's that in a place like Paris, romance can be found on nearly every street corner; in Portugal (Lisbon in particular), it's there, but at times needs to be sought out (or even unexpectedly stumbled upon).

Lisbon’s number 24 tram (not quite as famous as the 28, but you take what you can get sometimes).

Look past the street art and crumbling buildings, the overeager street vendors and purveyors of illicit goods, and the ever-present cranes and construction, and you'll find the sunset views of the miradouros, that unexpected neighborhood wine bar with delicious tapas, the winding streets of Alfama, beautiful beaches, delicious food and wine, and some of the friendliest people you'll ever meet as a tourist.

StoriesMark TegethoffNovember 17, 2018Travel

West Sussex & Hampshire, UK

Labor Day marks the traditional end of summer here in the States. This year we joined Lauren's family in the UK for an end-of-summer holiday.

We could not have asked for a better week to visit, as the weather in Southern England was the perfect respite from the stifling heat and humidity of Washington, DC. Our days were marked by crisp mornings and delightfully warm afternoons, and we lived out-of-doors about as much as in.

It was a trip filled with quality family time, but also marked by its excursions to a series of delightful neighboring towns.

Chichester

Our home for the duration of the trip, Chichester, is the only city in West Sussex. It has quite a long history, with parts of its original Roman city walls still standing to this day. Additionally, the Chichester Festival Theater is one of the UK's flagship producing and touring theaters.

Staying just outside of Chichester with Lauren's aunt and uncle, this was our home base for the trip. Whether relaxing at the house and catching up over a glass of wine (or two or three), going for a morning run through the countryside with Caroline, or strolling through town, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Chichester, and look forward to our next visit.

Lauren and I relaxing on the lawn in Chichester.

Gosport

On a peninsula situated between The Solent and Portsmouth Harbour on the Southern coast of England, Gosport was one of the Allied staging beaches for Operation Overlord (D-Day) during World War II. Its 17 miles of waterfront include a pebble beach at Stokes Bay that offers views of the many passing ships and pleasure craft.

Families and sailors alike enjoy a late summer afternoon on Stokes Bay.

We spent parts of a few days in Gosport this trip visiting Lauren's grandmother. This included a Sunday pub lunch at the Anglesey Hotel, followed by an afternoon stroll along Stokes Bay.

Portsmouth

A short ferry-ride from Gosport, Portsmouth has been a significant naval town for centuries, and its historic dockyard contains the world's oldest dry dock. Its the birthplace of Charles Dickens, the home of Portsmouth FC, and the Spinnaker Tower (one of the UK's tallest structures).

After a brief ferry ride from Gosport, our visit to Portsmouth was marked by a walk around the Historic Dockyards, and meal with a view at a Wagamama's in the Gunwharf Quays.

Arundel

Home to Arundel Castle, seat of the Duke of Norfolk, Arundel is a small town in West Sussex. It's situated along the River Arun in a steep vale, and offers visitors a wonderful afternoon of visiting shops, touring the castle and its grounds, or enjoying an afternoon tea (or coffee).

While we arrived a bit too late in the afternoon to tour the castle on the day of our visit, we did visit a few of the shops, and spend a few moments relaxing over cider along the river.

West Wittering

A small village in the Chichester District of West Sussex, West Wittering boasts an unspoiled sandy beach with views of Chichester Harbour and the South Downs.

Our visit included a peaceful and pleasant walk along the large beach, and was a perfect cap to the trip.

StoriesMark TegethoffSeptember 14, 2018Travel

The Drive

They say it’s the journey not the destination. And when they say that, the best possible version of that journey would be this drive. Because for one stretch of land, perhaps only for this stretch of land — it’s both. A place you would fight your whole life to end up endlessly driving on.

I spent a day on the PCH almost 2 years ago with my college roommate.

We began in Los Angeles, and approximately 16 hours later we put our heads down in Santa Rosa. It was one of my favorite days in recent memory. Josh's post might inspire my own story in the near future.

Stay tuned.

LinksMark TegethoffMarch 9, 2018Photography, Travel, Inspiration

Christmastime in London

England during the holiday season is a delight.

I don't know the reason or the history, but I don't think I've been to a more festive place during the holiday season (I'm sure the Christmas markets in Germany give it a run for its money, but I've yet to have the opportunity to visit there). Everywhere you turn, there are light displays, trees, ornaments, and holiday cheer.

I returned late last week from a week-long trip there with Lauren and her family, where we had a wonderful time.

We spent a fair bit of the trip in Southern part of the country visiting family, and even got to attend our first Premier League football (soccer) match (in Southampton).

The second half of our trip was spent an hour and a half train ride away in London, which, turned out to be the photographic highlight of the trip.

London

Waterloo Bridge & Trafalgar Square

We braved the chilly evening air to make our way from Waterloo Bridge, and it's dusk views of the city, to Trafalgar Square. From there we enjoyed the Christmas lights that adorned the streets and retail shops along Regent, Brook, and Bond Streets before finishing our evening with dinner at gastropub near where we were staying. It was all quite festive and fun.

Sky Garden & Covent Garden

Our second and final morning in London, we awoke to forecast of rain, but made the most of our day, with a visit to the Sky Garden, which despite the weather and low visibility, gave us some fun views of the city.

A late morning breakfast and wander through Borough Market (I never knew that 'Shake Shack' sauce was something that I needed on a bacon sandwich) was a highlight of the day. We also managed to sneak in a visit to Covent Garden before the rain sent us packing.

Our brief London stay ended that evening with a festive bang at the Royal Albert Hall for a performance of Christmas Classics by the London Concert Orchestra, Royal Choral Society, and Fanfare Trumpeters of the Royal Logistics Corps. A late evening pint at the pub near our hotel was the evening's finale, and we went to sleep quite content with the week that was.

See these all these images (and a few more) on my Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmaUZmiG

StoriesMark TegethoffDecember 19, 2017Travel, Life, Urban

Barcelona

The fourth most densely populated city in the European Union; Barcelona is the capital city of Catalonia, and is one of Europe's leading tourist, economic, and cultural centers. It is a city known for the art of Picasso and the architecture of Gaudí, and is home to the Blaugrana and their Nou Camp. It sits on the Mediterranean sea between Llobregat and Besós rivers, and is protected by the Serra de Collserola mountains. It was also, the destination we chose for the second-leg of our trip to Spain.

Pamplona & Montserrat

With our time San Sebastián coming to an end on Wednesday, October 11, we checked out of our hotel, got in our rental car, and began the journey to Barcelona.

Pamplona

First stop of the morning led us through Pamplona's ancient city walls, and into its medieval city center. After just missing the opening of the market on Plaza del Castillo, we checked out the exterior of city's famous bull ring, Plaza de Toros de Pamplona, and then made our way back towards our parking garage, and before long were on the road to Montserrat.

The next few hours were spent driving through more mountainous Spanish countryside of Aragon and Huesca, passing though Parque Natural de la Sierra y Cañones de Guara, and ultimately arriving in the early evening at Montserrat.

Montserrat

Since we arrived late in the day, Montserrat's activity for the day was already beginning to slow. We explore the monastery grounds, and made sure to take the funicular up to the top of Saint Joan, where we looked out over Catalonia in the day's fading light, but after a full day of driving, we were beat, so off to the airport we headed to drop off our rental car. Once there, we hopped in a cab, and headed to our hotel in Barcelona's El Born neighborhood. We checked in, cleaned ourselves up a bit, found ourselves some tapas, and called it a night.

Barceloneta Beach, Parc de la Ciutadella & Catalunya Square

The next morning, we got an early start, and after coffee at a neighborhood cafe, we spent the morning learning about the life of Pablo Picasso, at his museum. While many of his most famous works reside in galleries throughout the world, the museum's curators have done an admirable job of telling a story about the career and life journey of one of the 20th century's most famous artists.

Barceloneta Beach

Our next stop was a walk to and along the beach in Barceloneta. We dodged the many street vendors, did our fair share of people-watching, grabbed a vacation cocktail at a beachside bar, and ultimately had a delicious lunch of tuna tartare and grilled octopus at Agua on the beach.

Parc de la Ciutadella & Catalunya Square

With bellies full of delicious seafood, we made our way inland to check out Barcelona's downtown area. Our route took us around and through Parc de la Ciutadella, under Barcelona's Arc de Triomf (European's love their arches), eventually leading us to Catalunya Square, and the top of the famed Las Ramblas. Here we encountered the only real bit of political demonstration (outside of the ever-present Catalonia flags hanging from balconies) during out time in Spain: the remnants of a morning pro-Spain unity demonstration, which mostly consisted of a few groups carrying flags and chanting, "Barcelona is Spain; Spain is Barcelona".

The leftover stage from a morning political demonstration on Catalunya Square.

By this point, our feet were starting to tire, so we found a tapas bar recommended to us by two different friends, [Tapas 24], where we shared a pitcher of sangria, patatas bravas, croquetas, and more. Our evening ended with a walk back through El Born to our hotel, and an obligatory dinner of Paella at a local restaurant.

Park Güell, La Boqueria & Sagrad Família

Park Güell

Our final full day in Spain started with a metro journey through town to visit Gaudí's Park Güell. The park certainly has its merits, but to me, the story of Gaudí's vision was more fascinating than the park itself. While I appreciated the intricacies of the mosaic work throughout the park, the crowds of people have turned what should be a peaceful escape in the city into something a bit more hectic.

La Boqueria

After doing our best to relax in the park for a few, we journeyed back towards our hotel, and walked through the Gothic Quarter to La Boqueria. We'd heard that Bar Pinotxo was not to be missed, and we made sure not to miss it. A bar that has been open for nearly 100 years, and continues to be family-owned and operated to this day; it was not to be missed.

On the day we visited, we counted three generations preparing the food, including the patriarch of the family, Juanito (Pinotxo, himself). After a brief wait, we were able to secure two of the fourteen bar stools, and sat down to wonderful lunch of freshly prepared specialties. The white beans with baby squid, prawns, and chickpeas were all delicious. We washed lunch down with a couple of beers, vacated our stools, and started to make our way back across town to see the final attraction of our trip: Sagrada Família.

Sagrada Família

Despite the fact that we were, at this point, beginning to run our steam from constantly being on the move. We decided to head to the famous, in-progress basilica on foot, stopping on the way to see a few of Gaudí's famous apartment buildings, Casa Batlló and La Pedrera.

After admiring these two sculpture-like dwellings, we made a pit stop for some local souvenirs, and made it to the basilica just-in-time for our 5:15 entrance time.

A truly grand structure, Sagrada Família's construction commenced in 1882, and is still in-progess to this day. Estimates suggest that the structure might finally be finished in 2026 (the centenary of Gaudí's passing), but despite being unfinished, the basilica truly is an impressive piece of architecture.

Our tickets gave us entry to the basilica, as well as access to the Nativity Tower. After a bit of a wait, it was our turn, and up we went. The details of the cathedral from above, as well as views out over the city were truly stunning. We began our descent, making sure to take in the views that the tower had to offer. Once more on the ground, we came away from our visit feeling like we had found an appropriate finale to our trip. Sagrada Família is a beautiful structure, and deserving of its must-see status.

A tip for future travelers: Make sure to try to book your tower visit for later in the day, as the late afternoon sun makes the city and towers glow.

We ended our trip with a dinner and drinks a few blocks from our hotel, and went to the sleep feeling like we got the most out of our week in Spain.

For more photos from the Barcelona leg of our trip, take a peak at the full album on Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7r4L7r.

StoriesMark TegethoffOctober 23, 2017Travel, Urban, Land & Sea

San Sebastián

Situated in the northern coast of Spain, San Sebastián (or Donostia, if you’re Basque) sits just 20 km from the French border. It is the capital city of Spanish province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque region, has a wonderful blend of food, culture, and people, and sits on a gorgeous beach on the Bay of Biscay.

Tarragona & Zaragoza

Our visit to this beautiful city commenced on Sunday, October 8 following an overnight flight into Barcelona and journey via car across Spain (with pit stops in Tarragona for breakfast and Zaragoza for lunch) that took most of the morning & afternoon to complete.

Tarragona

Zaragoza

Once we arrived, checked into our hotel (Astoria7, which I highly recommend), and shook off our travel weariness, we set out upon the town and enjoyed our first pintxo bar experiences, but not without first making our way to beach.

After a later than expected evening (a glass of wine or two might have been consumed along with all of the delicious food), we called it a night, returned to the hotel, and rested up for a couple of very busy days.

Zurriola Beach, Old Town, Bodegón Alejandro, Monte Urgull & La Concha Beach

Zurriola Beach

Monday morning began with a needed coffee and delicious poached egg over avocado toast at Sakona Coffee Roasters. From there, we headed down to the beach, on what was a gorgeous morning, and took in the sights at the surfing beach, Zurriola.

Old Town & Bodegon Alejandro

San Sebastián is a city known for its wonderful culinary tradition. It boasts, per capita, the 2nd most Michelin Stars of any city in the world (trailing only Kyoto, Japan), so we felt like we needed to experience at least one of these recognized eateries. So, after a stroll back through town, we decided on one of San Sebastián’s many Michelin recognized restaurants, Bodegón Alejandro, where we stuffed ourselves silly with a six-course tasting menu. I won’t soon forget the Anchovy Lasagna, the standout dish in a meal full of excellent flavors.

Monte Urgull

With bellies full, Lauren and I crossed town once again, and began our ascent up Monte Urgull, where we stopped often to both catch our breath and to take in the magnificent views.

After sitting for a beverage at the bar near Monte Urgull’s summit, we descended the mountain, and ambitiously set out for the funicular at Monte Igueldo on the other side of the bay. Rather than take a taxi or bus, we decided to hoof it along San Sebastián’s picturesque La Concha beach.

La Concha Beach

As the sun began to set, we had high hopes for the views atop Monte Igueldo, but alas, it was not meant to be, as we arrived at the funicular entrance only a few minutes before its scheduled 19:00 closing time to find the ticket counter closed up, and the day’s funicular rides all completed. While we were disappointed, we were also exhausted from the ~10 miles we covered on foot, and decided, after a stop at a local bar for some pintxos, to call it an evening.

Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz & Amelia

Our third day in San Sebastián began with an audible. We knew we were very close to the France-Spain border, had access to our rental car, and were interested in exploring what the French side of Basque Country had to offer. With that in mind, we grabbed our morning coffee and hopped in the car.

Biarritz

First stop on our French day trip was the city of Biarritz. After a wrong turn or two, we found ourselves a parking spot by its famed surfing beach, and began exploring.

While in town, we found a bistro to our liking, Le Tandem, where we had shared some mussels & frites for lunch. Following lunch, we explored the city's beach areas a bit more, noting the interesting juxtaposition between surfing culture on Plage de la Côte des Basques, and the luxury feel found along Grande Plage.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz

The second stop on our brief tour of France's Basque coast, led us to Saint-Jean-de-Luz. A much needed afternoon soda helped us recharge our batteries, and we wandered off of the boardwalk into town's shops.

After an enjoyable hour and a half of exploring we returned to the car, thinking we'd hop in and make our way back to Spain without incident. All was going according to plan until I realized that I had lost our garage ticket. In a panic, I searched, re-search, and triple-searched the car, my pockets, and the floor of the garage. Lauren then waited behind with the car while I headed off to attempt to procure a new ticket somehow. When that failed, I meekly pressed the 'Help' button on the garage's payment kiosk. A broken conversation between myself and the non-English speaking attendant, eventually ended in me mustering enough Spanish words (I say words, because they were in no way grammatically or structurally correct) to coax the gentleman to come to the garage to help. Thankfully, he arrived promptly, and was able to help us escape the parking garage. 45 minutes later, we were safely back in San Sebastián, kicking our feet back for a few, and resting up before our final in meal in town at Amelia.

Amelia

We decided for our final meal in San Sebastián, we wanted one more great culinary experience. Unfortunately, we had not been able to secure a table at Arzak, or one of other famous restaurants of its ilk. However, after a bit of research, we realized that Amelia, was new on the scene and its chef, Paulo Airaudo, had in fact, spent time in the kitchens of restaurants like Arzak and The Fat Duck, and already had Michelin star under his belt at La Bottega. We opted for the six course tasting menu with the sommelier's wine pairings. The meal was a great experience, culminating with a chance to visit the kitchen and say 'hi' to Chef Airaudo.

We thoroughly enjoyed each course, but the star of the show for me, was our dessert course: a frozen lemon custard paired with a dill-infused oil.

With our grand finale of the part one of our Spanish trip in the books, we retreated to the our hotel to get some rest in preparation for our journey back to Barcelona.

For more photos from the San Sebastián leg of our trip, take a peak at the full album on Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm4z91hh

StoriesMark TegethoffOctober 18, 2017Travel, Urban, Land & Sea

Lunchtime in the Windy City

Punch the clock. Open the door. Take advantage of your time. See the sights. Lose yourself for a moment. Doze off. Breathe.

When I'm in a new city (whether on vacation or otherwise), I do my best to walk everwhere I go. Even just a brief escape during lunch hour can reveal the unique personality and rhythm of that place.

VignettesMark TegethoffOctober 2, 2017Urban, Travel